1. Féria Verde Farmer’s Market. We began our hunt at a local farmer’s market about a half a mile from our hotel. Because practice was pushed back, we had to half run, half walk up steep hills, down green-painted sidewalks, across railroad tracks, and through barbed wire fences in order to make it to the market before it closed at noon.
Luckily, our tour guide knew of a shortcut, and she led us to the steepest, most treacherous flights of brick stairs that I have ever seen in my entire life. Weeds stretched across the path like tentacles, and none of the steps were flat. They all sat at an angle, as if they wished to dump adventurous tourists off of them.
“Is this really a shortcut or a recipe for disaster?” one of my teammates asked, tiptoeing down the stairs one-by-one, placing her palms on the wall next to her as if it would save her.
“It’s an adventure,” Dr. Scholten responded, turning around with a wide smile on his face.
And the adventure was so worth it. At the bottom of the stairs, we came across an explosion of culture. Men of all ages played basketball on a small court, the two halves divided by a garden hose, the chain nets clanging loudly every time they made a basket. In little tents down the entirety of the sidewalk, Costa Rican merchants sold jewelry with rings far too small for any of our fingers, essential oils, and coffee beans. Dogs sat behind every tent, curling up under every table. Holding a microphone, a woman in a long pink dress serenaded the shoppers with Spanish music, her loud, strong voice blaring through speakers in every corner of the street.
I felt out-of-place, but I did not feel uncomfortable. That’s the beauty of exploring, of staying in tune to each lesson you learn while traveling, while taking extraordinary journeys. Your comfort zone becomes uncomfortable. You interact with people who have built a society, a town, a country so different from your own. And you learn what it means to live a truly pure life.
2. Universidad Hispanoamericana. Our next stop was a beautiful college campus consisting entirely of large, white-painted buildings with royal blue accents. The Universidad Hispanoamericana is a major private university in San José, and students who attend this university most often specialize in business administration, engineering, psychology, and medical studies.
Other than the color of the buildings, the paint peeling at the edges, the campus looked as though it could be picked up and placed in the United States without question. The facilities were incredibly modern, but I think that goes to show Costa Rica’s goals in innovation: to keep up with the rest of the world. Students at the Universidad Hispanoamericana earn internationally recognized degrees through incredibly up-to-date programs and learning techniques.
Although there wasn’t much to explore, it was one of my favorite stops. As a college student myself, I loved feeling connected to this country, to its people. Maybe somewhere on this campus is someone who loves to write as much as I do, I thought.
3. Barrio Escalante. After leaving the university, we walked a few blocks to Barrio Escalante, a very hip, modern neighborhood centered around food services and serving the people near it–so mostly college students.
My teammates and I passed restaurants with a different hit song blaring through each of the speakers. We ducked under fairy lights hanging between the roof of the restaurants and the trees that grew in the middle of the street. While building the neighborhood, while putting down the roads, Costa Ricans didn’t move the forestry, reaching far up into the sky as they had done when a forest existed around them. Instead, they built and paved around the trees. They knew that the trees had come first, and they honored it.
It’s beautiful to know that while serving the next generation of professionals, the next generation of the world, the people who built Barrio Escalante set an example of respect for all living things, all non-human creatures. By carrying that message into the future, I’m confident that students at the Universidad Hispanoamericana, no matter what field they decide to go into, can change how we treat our earth.
4. Central Market. Next, we made our way to the Central Market, a lively, mazelike shopping experience with vendors selling their produce, fish, coffee, and traditional crafts. The hallways between the shops were only about three feet wide, and we squeezed past each other, not wanting to bump into or break anything that was hanging ominously from the ceiling. We smelled spices, piled in high piles in wooden baskets. We watched as a man reached into a dog kennel and pulled out a puppy the size of my fist, its chest fluttering wildly, placing it on a scale before handing it to an eager customer. We smiled respectfully at vendors who watched us with wide eyes, repeating, “Look! Look! Look at my things! It’s free to look!”
It was overstimulating to say the least, but I’ve never felt closer to understanding the Costa Rican culture than when I’ve been thrown into the deep end. Good thing I know how to swim.
5. Lolo Mora’s Ice Cream. Craving something sweet while walking through the overwhelming Central Market, we stopped at one of the most famous ice cream shops in all of Costa Rica: Lolo Mora’s. Lolo Mora’s has been in business since 1901 and serves ice cream made of natural ingredients only. Watching the locals, I ordered the only kind of ice cream the shop offers–a yellow concoction that tasted of vanilla and cinnamon when it melted on my tongue. It definitely wasn’t the United States form of soft serve ice cream, but perhaps it was even better.
6. Soda Tapia. Although we were no longer hungry, we thought it was only right to stop at Soda Tapia, Costa Rica’s oldest “soda,” a local eatery where servers are used to the same locals coming in every day. All of the food is home-cooked, and Soda Tapia remains a must-visit because it feels like eating at a table of a local family. It’s the most authentic way to experience traditional cuisine. Watching from the street, I saw Costa Rican locals laughing with their waiters and waitresses, throwing their heads back to the ceiling, crow’s feet stretching across their eyes. In front of them sat empty plates that used to contain Soda Tapia’s famous dish–a layered combination of rice, beans, salsa, fried pork, and tortilla chips.
Where do you find happiness in Costa Rica? My gut tells me that it’s found in a soda.
7. SJO Sign. Stopping back at our hotel to rest our feet, we walked past a sign we had seen several times before, but had never stopped to actually recognize, to contemplate. In big, blue, block letters, the sign read, “SJO Vive,” or, in English terms, “San José lives!”
And it most certainly does. Usually surrounded by swarms of pigeons and locals who pour corn in tourists’ hands, if they’re willing to pay enough, so the birds flock to them and rest in their palms. It’s the perfect example of a city so alive, so awake to the world, so loud and vivid and brilliant. San José has everything–art, education, social work, and spaces for familial and friendly leisure. It’s where anyone can stare in the face of culture and feel the adrenaline, but not the fear.
San José is both a pathway, a journey towards knowledge and cultural appreciation, and also a destination.
8. LaSabana Park, National Stadium, & Art Museum. After resting our feet (and maybe our eyes for s bit, too), we began the long walk to LaSabana park, our last stop on our scavenger hunt. Considered the “lungs of Costa Rica,” LaSabana is the largest and most significant urban park in the entire country. Becoming so used to small, cramped spaces while walking through the market, even I was surprised to slowly abandon my claustrophobia, to take a breath of fresh air.
LaSabana features the country’s National Stadium and the Costa Rican Art Museum upon the park’s green space. But other than the infrastructure, LaSabana is also known for its large artificial lake, multiple soccer fields, running and skating tracks, and a gymnasium.
It’s a place where people can go to relax in a city surrounded by green, breathing mountains. It’s a place abundant with life, but here, it’s abundant with people rather than trees, people all on their individual journeys towards a happy, healthy life.
And as beautiful and culturally eye-opening as each destination was, I think I enjoyed our walks in between each stop far more, the people we talked to in painfully broken Spanish, the street art we pointed out to each other, our deep conversations and the laughs we shared. We looked up at the intensely violet and burning orange flowers hanging over the sidewalks, joking about how we could pretend we were walking down the aisle at a very public wedding. We ducked our heads under power lines that had fallen out of their thick bundles between their posts, dangling in front of our faces. We sipped ice tea and finally enjoyed some bread because while rice and beans are abundant in Costa Rica, pasta and other wheat-products are not. We laughed with our waitress when she didn’t understand our translation for “strawberry lemonade.”